Call us: 248-740-1326

My Cart

Cart $0.00

You have no items in your shopping cart.

Installation instructions


To install the Flex P-trap you don’t need any tools.


If you have a special situation, you might need a drywall knife and a 1.25 inch diameter plastic tube, to cut the specific length of flexible tube. Flex P-trap will fit with all fixtures used in sink draining. Flex P-trap can be used by home owners, mobile homes, beauty salons etc., but for new home constructions is not approved by the plumbing inspector. The flexible extending tube, flexible J-trap and the rubber J-trap have been on the market for one hundred years; they are not approved by inspector in USA, but are approved in Europe. 



A. INSTALLATION THEORY 

Fig.28Fig.28



To install a regular trap, the sink has to be perfect in the horizontal position (not tilted to the left, right or front). A regular p-trap has 3 joints (A,B and C on Fig.28 above). Joint A adjusts the p-trap when the sink is tilted to the left or right, and adjusts the length of trap in X-Z plan. Using joint A, the trap can be rotated and translated to adjust the coordinate X. Using joint B, the trap can be rotated around axe Z (conic joint) when the sink is installed eccentric (so that the axe of the tailpiece is not in the same vertical plan with the center of the outlet draining). From joint B, adjust coordinate Y.When the axe of the tailpiece and the center of the outlet draining are in the same vertical plane (Y=0), the sink is centered.


Joint C can be used to adjust the length of the tailpiece, coordinate Z. Regular p-trap can't be adjusted when the sink is tilted in the front. Because of this, some inventors replace the conic joint B with a ball joint; others use flexible extension tubes to connect the tailpiece with the p-trap, which is not approved by the inspectors. Because of this, plumbers use silicon in the join when the sink is not installed in the horizontal position.



B. WATER-SEAL THEORY


In order for the draining line of the sink to work properly, the following rules must be obeyed:

Rule 1.  Vent location must be maximum 5 feet from the sink.

Rule 2.  The slope of the draining pipe from the sink must be minimum 1.25 inches per foot (D).

Rule 3.  Length of the tailpiece must be less than 24 inches.

Rule 4.  The diameter of the p-trap for the kitchen sink must be 1.5 inches.

Rule 5.  The diameter of the p-trap for the bathroom sink must be 1.25 inches.

Rule 6.  Water-seal must be 2-4 inches deep.



If the diameter of the p-trap is less than 1.25 inches, the p-trap will self-siphon and the water-seal will dissapear. If the taipiece is over 24 inches in length, the gravity of the water will wash away the water-seal, similar to a rollercoaster. If the room is too dry, and the sink it used one time in 2 weeks, the water-seal will evaporate. To prevent this from happening, you have to change the depth of the trap to be more than 4 inches. If the p-trap diameter is over 1.5 inches, the space under the sink is limited and it will be impossible to install the p-trap.


When the water is turned off, there will be air on both ends of the water-seal, so the force to push the water-seal is zero. If the vent is clogged, the sewer gas will push the water-seal away (back-pressure), and the gas will escape in the room. When two sinks are installed one above the other and connected to the same draining line, water from the above sink creates partial  vacuum (back-venting), which sucks the water out of the lower sink's trap; this problem is solved using a deep seal p-trap. Using a deep seal trap has some advantages and disadvantages: a deep trap has a deeper seal with more water, therefore the seal doesn't evaporate as quickly; a deep seal p-trap can withstand a greater back-pressure of back-venting. Because of the increased depth and capacity, it is more resistent to than a standard fixture, but the corrugated tube increases the turbulence. 

The flex p-trap has an inside diameter with 1/16" (per radius) over regular p-trap for bathroom, and with 1/16" (per radius) less than the regular p-trap for kitchen.

The p-trap from schedule 40 is made (glued) by the plumber on the plumbing local code. 


Each plumbing inspector has his philosophy according to the local plumbing code; because of this, you might need to choose the standard p-trap. If you can't install the standard trap, you may use the Flex P-trap.



C. CONNECTIONS


1. Connecting Plastic J-trap 1.5 inch, Plastic coupling 1.5 inch and Brass coupling 1.5 inch Fig:16, 15 and Fig.17 flexible tube is cut in middle of rib.

2. Connecting Flex P-trap direct to sink, flexible tube is cut on bottom of cannels and use Plastic holder 1.5 inch Pos.11 and special nut Pos.22 Fig.13.

3. Connecting Flex P-trap direct to garbage disposal, tube is cut on bottom of channel and use Plastic holder 1.75 inch Pos.12 Fig.14.

4. Connecting Plastic coupling 1.5 inch to tail piece 1.25 inch of bathroom sink, tailpiece have to push inside of tube and use reduction plastic washer Pos.23 Fig.15.

5. Connecting Flex P-trap with Outlet tee, Extension tube and Brass nuts is standard Fig:3,4 and Fig:11,12.

6. Adaptor are used only for long tube and for special situation Fig: 24, 25 to keep Flex P-trap cost effective.

7. Rubber cord is used all time because heavy garbage particles and hot-cold water will lie down on capillary pipes and will stabilize U-shape of trap.

8. Connecting slip joint nut 1.25 inch to flexible tube will squeeze the tube and nut will slip over the rib Fig.27. If tube is too hard, drop end of tube in hot water to be soft and connect the nut.

 

 

Fig. 13  Fig.13

 

 

Fig. 14,16 Fig.14-16

 

 

Fig. 15  Fig.15

 

 

Fig. 17  Fig.17